As we sat down at Mrs. Wilkes Dining Room on our last full day in Savannah, the arrangement of food on the table drew attention. The number of items itself was only part of the story: sweet potatoes, cheesy potatoes, fried chicken, cornbread, corn, rutabaga, cole slaw, cukes, black-eyed peas, lima beans, stuffing, barbecued pork, cabbage, green beans, jambalaya, white rice, baked beans. All in porcelain bowls with serving spoons. This was a family-style meal. The way it works is that you stand in line outside the restaurant for a half an hour or so. When one of the tables inside opens up, seven to nine of the people standing in line take a spot at the open table. When you sit down, the food is hot and ready to go. You grab a bowl next to you and start loading your plate. If there’s something you want in a bowl across the table, you ask for it to be passed.
Anne-Marie didn’t initially sit down. She set her purse on her chair and went to wash her hands. Brook had her hand sanitizer out. I had mine out. The woman seated to my right asked to use one of the bottles. She and her husband had driven up from Miami, though they hail originally from Spain. They had planned to be in Japan this week but canceled that trip because of the outbreak. The other couple at our table was from Michigan, bringing the total at the table to eight.
I was conscious of the way I handled the bowls when passing or receiving them. But I also felt resignation. What’s done is done. Let’s just enjoy lunch, I thought. Reflecting back on the meal I’m wondering about the family-style concept in the age of corona. That restaurant is an institution. The original Mrs. Wilkes’s grand-daughter came to our table in greeting. Yet, with the way the news is trending overseas, the word ‘inevitable’ comes to mind. How do we stop going out to eat? How many traditions are we willing to concede? How many will we lose one way or another? I mean, I’m putting pen to paper on this trip not just because I’m a writer but with a mind to meeting an assignment for a travel writing class I’m taking at Washington University in St. Louis. My readers are my classmates. But I don’t know, as I sit here in Savannah, ready to go home, if my class will even convene later this month. Stanford has already gone online...
What follows is an essay I wrote one year ago as the coronavirus pandemic was taking hold. After multiple unsuccessful attempts to publish it elsewhere, I am happy to publish it here on my blog today. Click here for the full essay and thanks for reading...